My friend Jonathan and I cycled about 300 miles of the Camino Francés from Frómista, just west of Burgos to Santiago de Compostella in 2019. In 2023, along with John, another friend, we had the first opportunity after Covid to complete the first section of the Camino de Santiago, from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Frómista, where our 2019 journey started.
We decided that not only would we cycle the path that we had not yet covered but would also turn north just after Burgos and cycle to Santander for the ferry home. Both the journey through the Pyrenees and the journey through the Picos de Europa were fantastic but also a major challenge.
France into Spain
The beginning of our cycle ride started at Bayonne. We set off the next morning by bicycle towards the Pyrenees and our first stop on the Camino Francés was at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. This was no easy journey. The ascent was some 8,540 metres and near the summit the road just disappeared, and we were left with fields and tracks before descending towards our first stop.
The beauty of the first part of our journey from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port was unquestionable, through the woodlands and uplands of the Pyrenees often with stunning views in every direction, mixed in with deep woodlands and trackways. Unfortunately, the journey was marred by rain arriving mid-afternoon – we got absolutely soaked. Luckily, our first destination at La Posada de Roncesvalles was welcoming with warm dry rooms and the opportunity to get a three-course meal in the evening in the comedor. This hostel was part of a monastery.
Cycling through the Pyrenees: steep climbs and bad weather
We had massively steep climbs during the days through the Pyrenees with the highest ascent being 1,293 metres (4,209ft). It was a major challenge and stretched us to our limits. John and I had electric bikes, but Jonathan had his specialised non-electric. He did tremendously well. But for us older ones, it was almost a step too far. Even with the electric bikes, on each day through the Pyrenees, there was a steep ascent.
We also had heavy rain on two days with strong head winds, all of which might have made us consider turning back and giving in. However, what we went through for a few days was nothing compared to the difficulties the original pilgrims had to endure with thousands of miles of walking from their home countries. It just reminds you of their determination to complete their pilgrimage no matter what.
We supported each other and continued, and we are glad we did.
Food, board, fiestas and people
Most of the accommodation was excellent and very economic. Desayuno (breakfast) was extra. Food was plentiful on route except over the first two days in the Pyrenees. It was easy to find a cafe that served pinchos (snacks) – bacon and egg rolls for a mid-morning snack.
We were lucky on two occasions, one at Logroño and the other one in Reinosa, to have arrived during major fiestas. They were both associated with the week-long fiesta of San Mateo (St Matthew).
We also enjoyed the wine fountain at Bodegas Irache a few kilometres from Estella at the foot of Mount Montejurra. It was here we met hermit friar Lázaro de Arnotegui. I had a long chat with him during which he tried to convert me to Christianity. Very nice chap. I bought his ointment for aching muscles.
It was also interesting to talk to some of the people we met travelling on the Camino including the couple who were cycling all the way from St Malo in France to Santiago de Compostella – over 1,500km. It was in Castilla, west of Burgos, where I met Matt and Lydia who were cycling on their Brompton bikes. I never thought I would see somebody cycling this far on a fold-up bike! Apart from pleasure and the achievement of cycling the Camino, they were also using the trip to raise money for charity.
Cycling along Canal de Castilla, then up into the Picos
After Burgos we aimed for the Canal de Castilla, an 18th century waterway over 200km long that runs through the provinces of Palencia, Burgos and Valladolid, which a cyclist had mentioned to us some days earlier. It was a great recommendation with the canal set peacefully in the landscape. The canal stretched out a long distance to both south and north of the point where we joined it. We cycled the old towpath north for a while and then diverted off onto a quiet road which ran roughly parallel to the canal.
It is a beautiful route. As we were by a canal near a river we had very little ascent. Near the end of our journey, and before reaching Santander, we stayed at the medieval town of Santillana del Mar. We visited the prehistoric caves nearby, now managed by the Museo de Altamira. The original caves themselves are closed to the public to prevent further deterioration of the cave paintings of prehistoric animals, believed to be some 18,000 years old. However, the replicas they have created on the hillside next to the original cave are wonderful and well worth a visit.
By comparison, the journey from Burgos up to Santander was a lot easier, although there were some very steep climbs on some days in the Picos. In both sections, the views were fantastic, beautiful and far-reaching.
It was a seminal journey. At 77 I felt this was a major achievement. It was also a great accomplishment for my friends, John, aged 73 and Jonathan, aged 62, who joined me on this trip.
This is an edited version of a blog by Vic Ient. Read the original blog and view the photos.
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