The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is not for the faint-hearted. It circles the base of Mont Blanc, enters France, Switzerland and Italy and covers 170km and 10,0000 metres of ascent.
At the end of June 2024 my partner Callum and I decided to confront unpredictable weather, exhausted legs and gruelling inclines to tackle it head on. We travelled from Gatwick to Geneva and then to Chamonix, France via coach. There, we stocked up on French delicacies, baguettes, cold meats and cheese and set off on our exciting adventure.
Setting out: an easy start
We had decided to walk from Chamonix to Les Houches, a journey of just over 8km. The first third followed a rapidly flowing river through a holiday home village. At first it was flat and pleasant. However, after diverting from the main road, we found ourselves in a shaded forest, faced with steep, seemingly demanding hills.
Considering this was our easiest and shortest hike, I felt uneasy about the rest of our adventure. We arrived in Les Houches, purchased gas for our stove and continued to Camping Bellevue. Pitching our tent, we tucked into stuffed pasta and pesto and settled down for the night.
Our proper first day consisted of a six-hour, 18.4km hike, taking in the Col de Tricot. Our route took us through luscious green hills, then rocky terrain and extraordinary views. The sun was beating down and any breeze was greatly appreciated. We crossed over a gushing waterfall and ascended to 2,120 metres. Heading down the valley we rewarded ourselves with some trail mix and Orangina at Auberge de Miage. However, the day was not yet over. We continued over another mountain and descended to our next campsite, Camping Le Pontet.
Into the snow with aching legs
The second day’s hike covered 19km, from Les Contamines to Les Chapieux. It started off dry and warm. However, climbing the Col Du Bonhomme, patches of snow on the path meant we needed crampons. The sky was clear and although the views were reminiscent of a winter wonderland, I was comfortable in shorts and a T-shirt. During the climb we spotted a cute beaver-like creature, which turned out to be a marmot.
The ascent to the top of Col Du Bonhomme was incredible: brilliant blue sky, crisp white snow, the pounding of my heart and the immense ache in my legs. An hour from the top an emergency helicopter flew past, possibly checking if we were OK. After climbing 1,500 metres we reached the top and descended to a refuge.
The original plan was to wild camp there, but the snow made that impossible. We decided to go back down. The path was equally treacherous, but we were soon able to remove our crampons and tread stable ground once again.
The air became colder and dark grey clouds formed, with rumbles of thunder and flashes of lightning. The heavens opened and we sheltered in a musty (but sheep-free) barn, alongside a chatty young American woman. Eventually the three of us were able to descend to Les Contamines. Wishing our American friend a pleasant night, Callum and I set up camp in a free (and cold) grassy car park.
Hiking into Italy
The following day, we were hiking nearly 23km into Italy. It was cloudy and chilly, and the Alps were shrouded in plumes of grey and white. We travelled on a winding peaceful road, arriving at the base of our ascent.
A thick mist meant zero visibility. The terrain was icy and precarious. We crossed naturally formed ice bridges over gushing streams of meltwater. Reaching the top of Col de la Siegne we entered Italy in the early afternoon, still a long way from our destination.
The Italian mountains were a great contrast to the French. Masses of volcanic rock wreathed with trails of smoke were both eerie and wonderful. Fragrant pine trees towered into the murky clouds. Ultimately, the two of us safely arrived at Camping Hobo, enjoying a hot meal and an ice cold beer.
The first full day of hiking in Italy consisted of 20km. Happily, the trail was flat and wooded. Arriving at the campsite relatively early in the day, we rested and had an early night.
Switzerland: very cold and then intense heat
The next day we crossed into Switzerland on the Grand Col Ferret. Low dense cloud hid the views. It was cold so we rewarded ourselves at lunchtime with mozzarella, pesto and sliced meat. Descending into Switzerland we were greeted by cows and blue skies. Arriving at Camping des Glaciers situated in La Fouly, we pitched our tent under a beautiful glacier with incredible views.
The sixth day brought beautiful blue skies, sheltered woodland, vibrant green fields blooming with brilliant wild flowers, wooden chalets and the constant gushing of a nearby river. It was enchanting. We trekked around 16km to Lac de Champex. The heat was intense, but luckily a supermarket selling ice creams came to the rescue. We eventually reached the campsite for the night, situated an hour out of town.
Our next campsite was in Trient, Switzerland. We set off early but the distance and ascent weren’t as difficult as the previous days. The beauty of the villages and landscape did not disappoint. Arriving at the Emplacement Tente Le Peuty we became acquainted with a Polish couple. The husband and wife suggested a free campsite for our next day’s rest. That would mean summiting two mountains in one day, when we were only used to one. We decided to push ourselves for the next day, travelling 25km into France.
Mont Blanc – back to France
The next morning was fresh and clear. Travelling through green woodland, hopping over gushing streams, we quickly arrived at the French border. We were rewarded with stunning views of Mont Blanc as well as an amazing chocolate brownie from the refuge.
However, the day had just begun. The views as we descended the mountain were incredible. We eventually reached the bottom of our next mountain, Tête aux Vents. The climb, in sweltering heat, was physically and mentally tasking. Patches of shade were scarce, and the terrain became rocky and uneven needing ladders in places, which I climbed with great care.
After a quick snack of sausage and bread, we descended swiftly to our free campsite.
Completing the Tour du Mont Blanc: mixed emotions
Our final day of hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc included a steep descent into Chamonix and a small ascent back to Les Houches. We had a hearty breakfast at a refuge and set off. After travelling around five hours we rejoined the trail we took on our first day.
The wooden arch signalled the completion of the Tour du Mont Blanc and produced a mix of emotions. The night was completed with a few too many beers, bread, cheese and a live marching band who, conveniently, were holding music practice in the car park of the campsite. It was a brilliant end to an extraordinary adventure.
Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc alongside my best friend was the most incredible and challenging experience of my life. Nine days of hiking through three different countries was met with difficulties and struggles, but the sheer peacefulness, beauty and happiness I experienced will be remembered forever.
All pictures by Grace Brown, with permission to use.
